Stay in a ryokan - it's the single best thing you can do to encounter The Real Japan. There are many things you can do, and experience, in the land of the rising sun that will get you closer to and give you a feel for deeper, richer cultural travel. But, for me, there is one thing that stands above all others in delivering that enigmatic essence of feeling. To experience The Real Japan you must stay in a ryokan. 

One-Sentence Summary

Staying in a traditional wooden ryokan - a small, family-run inn featuring tatami rooms, kaiseki dining, natural hot springs, and impeccable hospitality - is the single most immersive way to experience the authentic cultural heart of Japan and its people.

Key Takeaways

• Choose traditional, rural ryokan with natural hot springs – Look for smaller wooden inns in the countryside or mountains that feature onsen (natural hot springs), whether indoor, outdoor (rotemburo), or even in caves, as these deliver the most authentic and memorable experience.
• Season matters for your experience – Spring offers sakura cherry blossoms, autumn provides stunning red foliage, and winter enables the magical experience of soaking in an outdoor hot spring while snow falls around you; summer is best avoided due to extreme heat and humidity.
• Embrace the art of being pampered – From the moment you arrive with staff handling your luggage, throughout complimentary tea service, to your futon being magically prepared in the evening, ryokan hospitality represents a level of attentive, old-fashioned luxury rarely found elsewhere.
• Ryokan rooms are more like suites than hotel rooms – Often named after flowers rather than numbered, rooms feature tatami mats, low-level seating, picturesque landscape views, and many include private baths overlooking forests, rice fields, or mountains.
• Exceptional multi-course kaiseki dinners are central to the experience – These meticulously prepared banquets showcase regional and seasonal specialities, and dietary alternatives (including Western options) are usually available upon request.
• Ryokan delivers unparalleled access to Japanese culture and tradition – Nothing gets you closer to the authentic heart of Japan than a ryokan stay; the sense of relaxation, peacefulness, and immersion in traditional practices is genuinely transformative.

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Not all ryokan are created equal

A ryokan is an inn or guest house. But not all ryokan are equal.

Whilst there are modern versions that go by the same name, I'm talking about a traditional ryokan. Those that are built from wood in the historical style, usually just one or two storeys.

You should also do your utmost to ensure that the ryokan you choose has an onsen – that is a natural hot spring. Onsen can be found inside the ryokan, outside (a roten-buro) or even, as I once memorably experienced, a cave under the ryokan!

A traditional wooden inn

There are ryokan all over Japan. From the middle of cities, to high up remote mountains, for my money (and yours – trust me), you want the rural option.

Whilst staying in a traditional wooden inn in the middle of Tokyo is possible, it isn't what we're looking for. We want it either in the countryside overlooking farmland or natural landscapes or high up in the mountains.

The best seasons to stay in a ryokan

You can stay in a ryokan any time of the year – although you may want to give summer a miss as it gets very hot and the humidity can be extremely high. Not a pleasant combination.

Spring is ideal as you can catch some sakura cherry blossom at the same time. Autumn gives you the fire red leaves of the season.

"A snow-covered ryokan surrounded by nothing but a silent forest is a beautiful thing"

Winter is perfect if the idea of spending time soaking outside in a natural hot spring whilst snow gently falls is part of your plan. Being able to just get through high passes, that are cut-off by heavy snow falls at the peak of the season, to emerge on the other side to find a snow-covered ryokan surrounded by nothing but a silent forest is a beautiful thing.

Irrashaimase!

When you arrive, staff wearing kimono will welcome and greet you by calling out “Irrashaimase!” or “welcome”. They will then ask you to switch from your shoes (for use outside) to slippers (for use inside) – as is the Japanese culture.

Rooms are frequently named after flowers rather than having numbers. So you're far more likely to be staying in the 'Chrysanthemum suite' than 'Room 9'. 

Ryokan are, generally speaking, small, often family-run concerns, some with as few as 4 or 5 rooms. Think small and perfectly formed more than big and brash (although the latter do exist).

Forget about carrying your own bags

When you stay in a ryokan you can forget about carrying your own bags or cases. No matter how old or infirm some staff may appear to be they will insist on transferring your luggage for you, often with more strength than yourself!

Customer service like you've never known

You'll be shown to your room which will be more like a multi-room suite than the cramped western style hotels you'll find in cities.

Rooms are furnished with traditional tatami mats for flooring and, for sitting on, legless chairs, called zaisu, which (just about) slide under a low-level table in the middle of the room, and floor cushions, called zabuton.

A maid will then come into the room to serve you, the weary traveller, complimentary green tea and sweets (after you've wiped your hands on the warm towel provided, of course). You will usually have to sign the guest register and confirm your dinner requirements.

Dinner will be served either in your room (the most traditional method) or in a dining room which usually doubles as restaurant and breakfast lounge.

Views across the local landscape

Some rooms have balconies, many have picturesque views across the local landscape.

You might be fortunate to have a bath in your own room. Some of which are cleverly placed in one corner with wooden screens that slide back on two sides so that your bath now not only directly overlooks the countryside (forest, mountains, rice fields, rivers and so on) but feels like it is actually positioned outside.

Your slippers will be near the entrance to your room (remember – no shoes inside Japanese houses!), and your personal yukata (lightweight kimonos) will be in a cupboard.

Embracing Japanese tradition

You are advised, henceforth, to transfer from your Western clothing (and mindset) to fully embrace Japanese tradition. You are then left to your own devices.

Time to explore the facilities of your ryokan and the landscape outside. 

The facilities are set out in a guide in your room (there's usually an English translation). They can encompass all sorts of luxuries including onsen, spa treatment rooms, in-room shiatsu massage, a library (sometimes including English-language books), a karaoke room. 

Walks in the nearby countryside

Some offer exterior pathways taking you for walks out into the nearby landscape, and almost all ryokan have a souvenir shop selling local foods, candy and trinkets.

There may be an entertainment room that may showcase local musicians, artists, flower arrangers (ask at reception for details on what's coming up if the schedule isn't on display). The options to keep you entertained are virtually endless.

But, at their heart, ryokan are about pampered simplicity.

Rooms that magically change

Whilst you are pre-occupied elsewhere, maids will have been at work, and you'll return to your room to find that, almost magically, the room has changed from a living space into a bedroom.

Your snug futon mattresses already made so you can slip into them for a peaceful and restful sleep. (There's nothing quite like the comforting weight of a heavy futon cover on a chilly night.)

The maid will also see that your futon are cleared away in the morning. Normally you are not expected to pay for your stay until before you leave on the last morning.

You may have gathered from all this wonderfulness that a stay in a ryokan isn't often the cheapest way to rest up somewhere, but it will be worth every penny.

"I cannot emphasise this enough. Nothing gets you closer to the cultural heart of Japan like a stay in a ryokan will"

I cannot emphasise this enough. In my view, nothing gets you closer to the cultural heart of Japan, and the Japanese, like staying in a ryokan will. If you can stay for several nights the sense of relaxation, peacefulness and old-fashioned, waited-on luxury is hard to beat.

If a stay in a roykan is outside your budget don't worry. I'll be covering a more budget-conscious alternative, minshuku, in a future article - so stay tuned and subscribe so you do not miss it.

Stay In A Ryokan - Top Tips

Cash only?

Some ryokan will take payment only in cash – not credit or debit card (even though they may ask for credit card details as security). Be sure to check this in advance when making your booking so you have enough cash with you during your stay should you do need it.

Free transfers?

Ryokan in remote places will often arrange to collect you from the nearest train station, bus stop or harbour. If they do offer this they'll normally be happy to drop you off for the return journey too.

Better still, this service is usually free of charge. Ask if they offer this when making your booking enquiries.

Western dietary requirements?

The chance to eat uncommon, regional or local cuisine is, for the Japanese, usually one of the key factors when choosing where to stay in a ryokan.

Meals are usually eye-popping banquets and the price of them can be high. But as a rare treat it's worth budgeting to include dinner (if only for one night) in your stay.

One or two dishes may occasionally test even the most adventurous of Japanese foodies, so feel free to ask for a 'Western' alternative. Which can sometimes mean either an entirely Western version of dinner or, more commonly, the main dish can be switched for something more palatable. Typically, this would mean substituting beef for an esoteric raw fish dish.

Breakfast on the go

If you are planning a full day out during your stay and wish to leave early, tell the staff the day before and ask if that instead of you eating breakfast in the morning (which you don't have time for) if they can prepare a packed breakfast/picnic.

That way you can eat whilst you are travelling. If this is something they offer you might be delighted to see what they can rustle up.

Staying in a Ryokan FAQs - Frequently Asked Questions

Q: What exactly is a ryokan?
A: A ryokan is a traditional Japanese inn or guest house, typically built from wood in a historical style, usually just one or two storeys. Unlike modern versions that share the same name, a true ryokan features traditional elements like tatami mats, futon bedding, natural hot springs (onsen), and exceptional service rooted in Japanese hospitality customs.

Q: Should I choose a city ryokan or a rural one?
A: Rural ryokan in the countryside or mountains offer the authentic experience you're after. Whilst traditional wooden inns exist in cities like Tokyo, the real magic happens when you're surrounded by farmland, natural landscapes, forests, or mountains - this is where you'll genuinely feel immersed in Japanese culture.

Q: What time of year is best to stay in a ryokan?
A: Spring is ideal if you want to see sakura cherry blossoms. Autumn provides stunning fire-red foliage. Winter is perfect if you dream of soaking in a hot spring while snow gently falls around you, surrounded by a silent forest. Avoid summer due to extreme heat and oppressive humidity.

Q: Do ryokan accept credit cards or only cash?
A: It varies. Some ryokan accept credit or debit cards, whilst others require cash only (though they may ask for card details as security). Always check in advance when making your booking so you have sufficient cash on hand if needed.

Q: What should I expect when I arrive?
A: Staff in kimono will welcome you with "Irrashaimase!" (welcome) and ask you to switch from outdoor shoes to indoor slippers. They'll carry your luggage for you and show you to your room, which is likely named after a flower rather than numbered. You'll then be served complimentary green tea and sweets while you confirm your dinner preferences and sign the guest register.

Q: What are ryokan rooms like?
A: Rooms are more like multi-room suites than standard hotel rooms, furnished with tatami mats, low-level legless chairs called zaisu, and floor cushions called zabuton. Many feature balconies with picturesque views across forests, mountains, rice fields, or rivers. Some have private baths cleverly positioned with sliding wooden screens so they overlook the countryside and feel like outdoor bathing experiences.

Q: What's a yukata and should I wear it?
A: A yukata is a lightweight summer kimono provided in your room. You're absolutely advised to change into it as part of fully embracing the ryokan experience. There's nothing touristy about it—most guests do it, and it's central to the immersive traditional atmosphere.

Q: How do meals work at a ryokan?
A: Dinner is typically a spectacular multi-course kaiseki meal showcasing regional and seasonal specialities, served either in your room (most traditional) or in a dining hall. Breakfast is a healthy spread of local seasonal produce, usually including fish, miso soup, and rice. Both meals are included in most ryokan packages.

Q: Can I request dietary alternatives?
A: Yes. If certain dishes don't appeal to you, ask for a "Western" alternative, which can mean either an entirely Western version of dinner or simply substituting the main dish for something more palatable (like beef instead of a raw fish dish). Ryokan staff are generally accommodating about dietary requirements.

Q: What happens to my room whilst I'm out?
A: Staff work their magic - when you return to your room, you'll find it has been transformed from a living space into a bedroom. Your futon mattresses will be freshly laid out, ready for you to slip into for a peaceful night's sleep. The heavy futon covers are particularly cosy on chilly nights. In the morning, staff clear away the futons.

Q: Are there activities and amenities beyond the room?
A: Most ryokan offer an impressive range of facilities which may include onsen baths, spa treatment rooms, in-room shiatsu massage, libraries (sometimes with English-language books), karaoke rooms, and exterior pathways for countryside walks. Many host local musicians, artists, or flower arrangers for evening entertainment. There's usually a souvenir shop selling local foods, candy, and trinkets.

Q: What if I need to leave early and skip breakfast?
A: Tell staff the day before and ask if they can prepare a packed breakfast or picnic for you to eat whilst travelling. Many ryokan offer this service and often impress guests with the quality and thoughtfulness of what they prepare.

Q: Do ryokan offer free transfers from the train station?
A: Many ryokan in remote locations do arrange free collection from the nearest train station, bus stop, or harbour, and will usually drop you off for your return journey too. Always ask about this when making your booking enquiries.

Q: Is a ryokan stay expensive?
A: Ryokan stays aren't typically the cheapest option for accommodation, but they offer exceptional value given what you receive - the hospitality, meals, facilities, and cultural immersion are genuinely priceless. If budget is a concern, minshuku (more basic Japanese guesthouses) offer a more affordable alternative with less formality.

Q: Why is staying in a ryokan considered the best way to experience "The Real Japan"?
A: Nothing gets you closer to the authentic cultural heart of Japan and the Japanese people like a ryokan stay. The combination of traditional aesthetics, impeccable hospitality, exceptional cuisine, and immersion in Japanese customs and practices creates a transformative experience that simply can't be replicated in any other type of accommodation.

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Do you want to stay in a ryokan? Have you stayed in one already? Whatever your experience share it with me and others by leaving a comment below...

The Japanese Guest Houses website is a helpful starting place to find ryokan throughout Japan:
http://www.japaneseguesthouses.com/

Japanese Ryokan Association:
http://www.ryokan.or.jp/past/english/what/index.html

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