What The $*@# Happened To Kodo?!



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I recently went to see Japan's, no..., make that the world's leading exponents of taiko drumming - the Kodo drummers. 

Or at least I thought that's what I was going to see. 

By the end of the evening I was left wondering: what the hell has happened to the Kodo drummers?! 

What The $*@# Happened To Kodo?!

What The $*@# Happened To Kodo?!
by Rob Dyer

They were performing at the Barbican Centre in London as part of their 35th Anniversary World Tour. I've seen them several times before down the decades and every time has been an unforgettable experience. Like nothing else on Earth.

Respected. Unrivalled. Revered.

Like nothing else on Earth

I recently went to see Japan's, no..., make that the world's leading exponents of taiko drumming - the Kodo drummers. 

Well, that's how it used to be. Sadly, not any more it seems.

The Barbican guide referring to Kodo as combining "taiko drumming with dance, song and kabuki" was at least transparent about where this is all going wrong. Kodo is (or was) a professional taiko drumming troupe. Plain and simple.

Kodo drummers The Real Japan

Kodo drummers are based on the remote island of Sado

We constantly hear how change is a good thing. Evolve or die some say. Certainly, when it comes to travelling I want to continue discovering new experiences - so that's kinda like change, I guess. If it is, I like that sort of change.

However, the kind of change I don't like it that which is driven not by need but by needless meddling. And that's what has happened here.


I fell in love with Kodo

I first sampled Kodo live in the 1990s when I was soaking up all examples of Japanese culture I could whilst living in the UK. I'd go to Sadler's Wells Theatre in London to see kabuki, noh, bunraku and traditional Japanese dance. And whenever Kodo played in the UK, I'd go to see them. And it would be a glorious experience.

I've visited thier mysterious home island of Sado off the north coast of Japan - getting a hands-on tutorial from Shinichi Sogo a former Kodo member at the Kodo Cultural Foundation's Taiko Center. I've got the (faded and shrunken) T-shirt and I have the albums. It's fair to say I fell in love with Kodo.

VIDEO: Shinichi Sogo (Kodo) Taiko Drumming Demonstration

That was then, this is now

However, what I hadn't picked up on was that in 2012 there was a change of Artistic Director at Kodo. And a rather dramatic one at that. Tamasaburo Bando, a former kabuki actor, took over and as so often happens after such appointments, appears to have felt compelled to change Kodo.

Based on this most recent experience, what was once the pinnacle of the art form of taiko drumming, has been reduced to a diluted, theatrical and populist shadow of its former self.

The resulting cacophony lies somewhere between Chinese New Year celebrations (complete with fake, coloured dragons) and Stomp! - the latter directly influenced by Kodo in the first place.

Desperate to be liked

Pretty much everything that set Kodo apart and above all wannabes has been discarded, replaced by populist nonsense that has no place in a Kodo performance as far as I'm concerned. The current incarnation of Kodo comes across as desperate to be liked, when it should be commanding reverence.

Worst of all, the compromises have resulted in an unremarkable, embarrassing version of what was once truly spectacular. Anyone coming new to Kodo through this current tour will have no idea what they are missing. But this current imposter certainly isn't what I and millions of others know and love as Kodo. Shameful.

Kodo tour poster The Real Japan

Kodo One Earth Tour poster 2009

A distraught friend

A friend also in attendance last night was so distraught at what he heard that he left after just 40 minutes and has requested a refund from the Barbican. Understandable as at times the programme was downright irritating (ie Chit Chat).

The second half of the programme was better than the first, and included two older pieces - but even those were but pale imitations of their former selves.

The massive o-daiko drum that used to be the centrepiece of the climax of most Kodo programmes has been discarded for a far smaller one, requiring less physical effort to play. Whereas before the drummer had to stand, both arms held high above his head, hammering the drum skin with sticks that were (and this is no exaggeration) almost as thick as a baseball bat.

This required an immense amount of strength and stamina - to say nothing of the technical and musical ability. The drummers were exhausted, drenched in sweat afterwards. In contrast, its smaller replacement is on the floor making it far easier for the dummer to use, requiring nothing like the skill and effort to play.

Japan Without Japanese Audiobook eBook bundle The Real Japan Rob Dyer

Kodo! Kodo! Where for art thou Kodo?

In the past, the physiques of the members of the troupe were outstanding, reflecting the years of training and physical demands required of their art form.

Today, there were just a couple of the troupe (the two eldest male members) who resembled the former Kodo. Instead, they have been replaced by a far more youthful group (one suspects in a patronising attempt to broaden Kodo's appeal among a younger audience).

I think, without exception, all the changes instigated by Bando are ill-conceived, resulting in a textbook example of dumbing down culture to broaden its appeal.

Clear evidence, in my view, that not all change is good! Far from it.


I remain hopeful this is 'just a phase'

Nevertheless, I remain hopeful that this is just a phase the Kodo are going through.

I sincerely hope that it isn't long before we can look back on this episode in Kodo's otherwise honourable history as a short-lived aberration, and we once again revel in the unmatched glory of Kodo in its purest form. Once again at the pinnacle of the expressive musical art form of taiko drumming.

Do you agree that not all change is good? Are you a Kodo fan? Do you agree or disagree with this article? I'd love to hear your thoughts, feedback or questions. Just leave a comment below...

Rob Dyer The Real Japan

About the Author

A writer and publisher from England, Rob has been exploring Japan’s islands since 2000. He specialises in travelling off the beaten track, whether on remote atolls or in the hidden streets of major cities. He’s the founder of TheRealJapan.com.


Kodo Websites

Official Kodo Drummer's website:

Official Sado Island Taiko Center:

Niigata Prefecture Tourism Guide - Taiko Center:

Kodo Arts Sphere America (KASA) website:

Further Reading

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A Friend's First Visit To Japan

An Insider's Guide To Tokyo's Live House Scene

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  • I met Shinichi Sogo in the Kodo Honbu on Sado when I was the guest lecturer on a tour around Japan some years ago and he let me play the same drum which is in the video above – a very nice chap and a fantastic experience. The Kodo Drummers have always been wonderful but it is disappointing to hear that they have diluted their performance as described above. Everything seems to be going the same way, just becoming populist, cheap and second-rate. Let’s hope they take notice of the adverse comments.

    • So cool that you men Shinichi-san as well Jay! To be honest, it has been some years since I last saw them, but I’ve been keeping a constant eye on their shows and not liked what I’ve seen.

      However, they’ve recently announced a new European tour that sounds like it might be a more ‘back to basics’ show. They’re playing in London in February 2024, close to my birthday, so I might check that out and report back.

      LINK: https://www.kodo.or.jp/en/performance_en/performance_kodo_en/42927

  • Renee Smith says:

    I watched the original Kodo on PBS in the States. Fell in love with it. Was wondering what happened to them. No DEFINITELY not liking the new version. My theory is the since new person is a Kabuki player, he changed it because of jealousy. BRING BACK THE ORIGINAL KODO!!!!

    • It’s a real shame isn’t it Renee! The original Kodo was unique and so refned. The current version is theatrical nonsense. Not at all what Kodo should be IMHO. Hopefully they’ll return to their origins soon.

  • James Whitlow Delano says:

    Thank you for writing this. I had seen Kodo in Tokyo in the 1990’s and found the performance mesmerizing. Last summer, I saw a Covid-friendly performance broadcast around the world and was stunned while dancers swirled colorful textiles through the air and Kodo did a second-rate impersonation of a Brazilian drum crew. I left saddened because I have seen other traditional art forms here in Asia destroyed by an effort to remain relevant. What is left is a Las Vegas musical extravaganza without the brunch.

    • Hi James, thanks for sharing your more recent experience.

      It’s really disappointing to hear they’ve not fixed this and have continued to pursue this dumbed down version of their craft.

      I was briefly in touch with Kodo via their official Twitter account and said I hoped they’d turn things around. Such a shame that they haven’t.

      This is terrible marketing IMHO. What the point of Kodo if it isn;t being true to its roots and simply apes completely different performances from other cultures?

      Such a shame. 🙁

      Still, when I last went to their cultural centre on Sado Island that was still a wonderful experience. So worth checking in on that if it retains the same approach.

  • Stephen John Carey says:

    Sadly, I must agree with your comments.

    I have followed the Kodo Drummers since first reading about them in a copy of Runners World. They were some unknown group who were very capable runners, who it seemed also had some kind of a drumming focus. A few months later, to my great surprise, a local university advertised a date for the group. I believe it was around $ 5. a ticked. How things have changed. Since the first show, I’ve been to many. Unfortunately, somewhere along the way, I agree, they have lost what the magic is about. Suddenly I was watching dancing, singing, and a great amount of ‘Vegas hype’, not the pure drumming I had fallen in love with.

    I will continue to follow the group, and definitely listen to the amazing drumming. But pay the new prices?? Not a chance. While the last show’s advertising pushed the drumming, it was a small part of a bigger extravaganza. I hope they find their way back to the magic. It is truly amazing.

    • Thanks for sharing your thoughts Stephen. I really appreciate it.

      Clearly we agree on this, and I can sense your disappointment as keenly as I feel my own.

      Visiting Sado island was always a dream of mine and the island itself still has a magical, remote feel to it; and the Kodo Cultual Centre is well worth a visit if you ever get the opportunity.

      As I concluded in the article, I’m hopeful this is just a ‘phase’ that Kodo is going through under the current management. It would be a real cultural and musical loss if we didn’t get back the old Kodo.

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